Oh No...Fireworks!!

The holidays are upon us. If you have a dog that is fearful of fireworks and all the loud noises that go with it here are some tips that may help.

1. Try making your dog comfortable with plenty of things to do in a room that is as soundproof as possible. Kongs and other food dispensing toys, things to chew and toys to chew and squeak are good choices.

2. If you are at home with your dog, have her near you so that you can provide a safe place and anchor for your dog. Stay inside and cuddle!

3. Some dogs find much relief through a Thunder Shirt! If you choose this option, start now and don’t wait until the day of the celebration. Your dog needs time to adjust to wearing it. It provides a snug fit that simulates a hug. Instructions in its proper fitting and use are provided by the manufacturer and online.

4. Play music! This again can provide a screen from the outside noise.

   All the best. Happy Holidays from Behavior Training for Dogs.

5 Reasons to Train Your Dog

1. Training provides structure for your dog’s life. It helps set expectations so he doesn’t need to wonder what he should be doing. It can also provide you some needed structure.

2. Training enhances the bond between you. A strong bond has a greater chance of getting the desired behavior, than a more hit and miss approach.

3. Teaching your dog new things provides enrichment for him. Remember he can’t just get in the car to go places or text his friends. He is dependent on you for his life.

4. Having a well-mannered dog can provide a model for others. Maybe others with dogs will see what a pleasure yours is and decide to act accordingly.

5. You can help keep family members and others that come to your home safe if you teach your dog manners. A dog that pulls on the leash or jumps up on people can lead to injuries. It doesn’t need to be that way. Do yourself and others a favor. Get your dog trained. It will be well worth it.

Basic Reminders

Usually when people hire a trainer they expect the dog to be very involved in the training process. But sometimes they are very surprised to learn that they are also expected to be a part of the training process. A lot of it is similar to raising kids. Provide basic structure, let them know what is acceptable and what is not. Set boundaries and limits. And most of all, be consistent.

Choosing a Leash

Every now and then there comes a time in a dog owner’s life when it is time to go shopping…for a NEW LEASH!! Like everything else in our nation of plenty leashes come in a multitude of varieties. There are really long leashes and then there are very short leashes. There are leather leashes and nylon leashes and leashes that pretty much glow in the dark. So how do you decide?

PURPOSE: The primary purpose of a leash is to connect you and your dog. Remember you and your dog are a team. And just like any team—good or bad—you are connected.

What is your primary need for the leash? If it is to walk your dog in city traffic or busy neighborhoods and streets, consider a City Lead. City leads or leashes are generally 4’ in length although once in a while you can find a 3’ leash. They are ideal for keeping your dog close in tight quarters and give you more manageability. For people under 6’ tall or so I find this a preferable length. I am 5’7” and indeed I use a city lead with my dog. It is less apt to get tangled or caught underneath her and I just find it more comfortable. If on the other hand you are someone who is a bit taller then perhaps a standard 6 ‘lead is more to your liking. The additional height of the taller person makes the longer leash a bit easier to handle.

Another available option is the Hands- Free leash, also known as a 3- in- 1 leash. The hands- free leash is just that — it frees up your hands for carrying things or for other reasons where a hand-held leash may not be practical. 2 years ago, I injured both arms in a fall in a parking lot. I still had to walk my dog and so I used a hands-free leash. The leash has at least 2 rings and an extra carabiner clip that can be set up in different configurations depending on your need. It can be worn around your waist (which is what I did), it can be used as a regular standard leash or it can be worn cross-body style. Having a hands-free leash as a backup leash in your kit is probably a good idea. You may never think that you’ll need it-until you do.

MATERIAL: Leashes come in an assortment of materials. Nylon leashes can be easily chewed through by some dogs but they are relatively easy to clean and come in many colors. You can probably even find one to match your dog’s collar.

Leather leashes are hard to beat for flexibility and comfort. Like nylon leashes they come in different widths. Remember that putting your yorkie on a 6 ‘long leash with a 1” wide diameter is going to be a bit cumbersome and too much for the little dog. Find a length and width that works for both of you.

If you plan on walking more than one dog at a time you might look at leashes having a coupler function included. That allows you to attach 2 dogs to one leash without the dogs getting tangled.

What you haven’t heard me mention is the dreaded but oh so popular Flexi-leash or Extendable leash. There is a reason for that. The flexi leash, though popular with owners has its number of drawbacks. The primary function of the leash is to connect the handler and the dog. The flexi-lead is a thin cord that makes any sensation of connection difficult for the dog. The dog walks or runs ahead and learns what? That he can! That if he gets ahead of the handler he can go pretty much go where he wants. This can inadvertently teach a dog that getting ahead of the handler (pulling) is permitted. It is also difficult to manage a dog on this type of lead when you need to quickly change direction. Going around a corner in close quarters can lead to problems if there is another person or dog coming around the corner at the same time. But the major problem with the flexi-lead is that there is little consistency. The dog never understands exactly where he is supposed to be in relation to you, the handler. Fixed length leashes (standard and other non-flexible) make those things non-issues.

There are numerous other options out there regarding leashes but for the sake of brevity I will leave it as is.

So go out there and find a good leash!! And until then…

Have fun with your dog!

Choosing a Leash (Copy)

Every now and then there comes a time in a dog owner’s life when it is time to go shopping…for a NEW LEASH!! Like everything else in our nation of plenty leashes come in a multitude of varieties. There are really long leashes and then there are very short leashes. There are leather leashes and nylon leashes and leashes that pretty much glow in the dark. So how do you decide?

PURPOSE: The primary purpose of a leash is to connect you and your dog. Remember you and your dog are a team. And just like any team—good or bad—you are connected.

What is your primary need for the leash? If it is to walk your dog in city traffic or busy neighborhoods and streets, consider a City Lead. City leads or leashes are generally 4’ in length although once in a while you can find a 3’ leash. They are ideal for keeping your dog close in tight quarters and give you more manageability. For people under 6’ tall or so I find this a preferable length. I am 5’7” and indeed I use a city lead with my dog. It is less apt to get tangled or caught underneath her and I just find it more comfortable. If on the other hand you are someone who is a bit taller then perhaps a standard 6 ‘lead is more to your liking. The additional height of the taller person makes the longer leash a bit easier to handle.

Another available option is the Hands- Free leash, also known as a 3- in- 1 leash. The hands- free leash is just that — it frees up your hands for carrying things or for other reasons where a hand-held leash may not be practical. 2 years ago, I injured both arms in a fall in a parking lot. I still had to walk my dog and so I used a hands-free leash. The leash has at least 2 rings and an extra carabiner clip that can be set up in different configurations depending on your need. It can be worn around your waist (which is what I did), it can be used as a regular standard leash or it can be worn cross-body style. Having a hands-free leash as a backup leash in your kit is probably a good idea. You may never think that you’ll need it-until you do.

MATERIAL: Leashes come in an assortment of materials. Nylon leashes can be easily chewed through by some dogs but they are relatively easy to clean and come in many colors. You can probably even find one to match your dog’s collar.

Leather leashes are hard to beat for flexibility and comfort. Like nylon leashes they come in different widths. Remember that putting your yorkie on a 6 ‘long leash with a 1” wide diameter is going to be a bit cumbersome and too much for the little dog. Find a length and width that works for both of you.

If you plan on walking more than one dog at a time you might look at leashes having a coupler function included. That allows you to attach 2 dogs to one leash without the dogs getting tangled.

What you haven’t heard me mention is the dreaded but oh so popular Flexi-leash or Extendable leash. There is a reason for that. The flexi leash, though popular with owners has its number of drawbacks. The primary function of the leash is to connect the handler and the dog. The flexi-lead is a thin cord that makes any sensation of connection difficult for the dog. The dog walks or runs ahead and learns what? That he can! That if he gets ahead of the handler he can go pretty much go where he wants. This can inadvertently teach a dog that getting ahead of the handler (pulling) is permitted. It is also difficult to manage a dog on this type of lead when you need to quickly change direction. Going around a corner in close quarters can lead to problems if there is another person or dog coming around the corner at the same time. But the major problem with the flexi-lead is that there is little consistency. The dog never understands exactly where he is supposed to be in relation to you, the handler. Fixed length leashes (standard and other non-flexible) make those things non-issues.

There are numerous other options out there regarding leashes but for the sake of brevity I will leave it as is.

So go out there and find a good leash!! And until then…

Have fun with your dog!

Understanding "TOUCH"! (or Why bother with Target Training?) (Copy)

One of the first tasks that I engage in when training a dog or puppy is to teach the Touch cue. Simple. You teach the dog to touch your hand. When I teach the behavior to the dog’s owner, I get these blank looks as if to ask ,“ Why on Earth should the dog touch my hand?” Good question! “

Touch, also called Target training is a basic foundation skill used as a positioning tool. The dog learns to follow a target (in this case your hand.) It is used to get the dog from place to place to place. Almost everything else taught in training builds upon this one behavior.

So what good is it? How is it used?

In the very basic form of “Touch” the dog learns to touch your hand. Your hand is the target. He learns that to be near your hand is a really good thing and it pays off to be around it and touch it. It gets the dog where you want him in preparation for whatever comes next. I like to think of Touch much like the S TART button on your car. You press START before you do anything else. Then you back up. Or pull out into traffic. But nothing happens until you hit (Touch) that button. So Touch signals the start of the next event. Touch and then ask for the Sit. Touch and then ask for the Down.

After the basic Touch is understood you learn how to use Touch to target other behaviors. It is used to teach the heel position—again in this way it is used to tell the dog where he is supposed to walk when with you. Usually he is asked to walk on the left of you and near your left heel. It is also used to teach loose leash walking. The skill is then transferred to other things and places. Go to a place and stay uses targeting.

Service dogs often use touch when learning to perform different tasks. It is used to teach dogs to open and shut cabinet doors. Dogs in movies and tv are touch to know where to stand when on the set or location.

Touch has multiple uses. It even is used to help dogs focus and calm down. If the dog is focused on their owner’s hand they are not focused on the dog across the street or the piece of food that fell to the ground.

So the next time that you hear someone talk about the Touch cue now you know what makes it all so worthwhile.

Terror in the Skies

Fireworks are right around the corner. If you have a fearful or noise phobic dog there are things that you can do to address his discomfort.

1. Keep him inside and away from the noise as much as possible.

2. Mask the noise of the fireworks with music or the sound of the TV.

3. Try a thundershirt. These are especially designed to “hug” the dog in a way that is soothing to him. Get him used to wearing it several days before the expected event. Try it for just a few minutes at a time. You will also need to know how to fit around him. This doesn’t work for all dogs but is effective for many.

4. Try artificial pheromones such as Adaptil products. Like thundershirts this can be found in most pet stores. It comes in several methods of use. It provides a pheromone similar to the ones released by the dam of the litter when the puppies were being weaned and is found soothing to many dogs.

   Now is the time to start getting your dog adapted to the method that you choose. Don’t wait until the event. Start now when things are calm!!

   Happy 4th!

Understanding "TOUCH"! (or Why bother with Target Training?)

One of the first tasks that I engage in when training a dog or puppy is to teach the Touch cue. Simple. You teach the dog to touch your hand. When I teach the behavior to the dog’s owner, I get these blank looks as if to ask ,“ Why on Earth should the dog touch my hand?” Good question! “

Touch, also called Target training is a basic foundation skill used as a positioning tool. The dog learns to follow a target (in this case your hand.) It is used to get the dog from place to place to place. Almost everything else taught in training builds upon this one behavior.

So what good is it? How is it used?

In the very basic form of “Touch” the dog learns to touch your hand. Your hand is the target. He learns that to be near your hand is a really good thing and it pays off to be around it and touch it. It gets the dog where you want him in preparation for whatever comes next. I like to think of Touch much like the S TART button on your car. You press START before you do anything else. Then you back up. Or pull out into traffic. But nothing happens until you hit (Touch) that button. So Touch signals the start of the next event. Touch and then ask for the Sit. Touch and then ask for the Down.

After the basic Touch is understood you learn how to use Touch to target other behaviors. It is used to teach the heel position—again in this way it is used to tell the dog where he is supposed to walk when with you. Usually he is asked to walk on the left of you and near your left heel. It is also used to teach loose leash walking. The skill is then transferred to other things and places. Go to a place and stay uses targeting.

Service dogs often use touch when learning to perform different tasks. It is used to teach dogs to open and shut cabinet doors. Dogs in movies and tv are touch to know where to stand when on the set or location.

Touch has multiple uses. It even is used to help dogs focus and calm down. If the dog is focused on their owner’s hand they are not focused on the dog across the street or the piece of food that fell to the ground.

So the next time that you hear someone talk about the Touch cue now you know what makes it all so worthwhile.